Quiet here, time for some new case ponoko/sketchup maddness



  • edited December 2011
    there was a mistake in the EPS file, actually one cut too much, which resulted in missing the stripe that would hold the front part in place (the bottom part, front side)
    how can the eps file be edited? i can open and view it in photoshop, but total noob when it comes to that stuff, as i am, i'm not sure if i can just go and edit it there, i.e. delete the line and that's it...
    i'd like to try again and just get me a new bottom plate, that shouldn't be much laser work, hence just a couple bux...


  • edited December 2011
    Howdy, .eps files can be edited in Adobe Illustrator, I could remove the line for you (I use Illustrator at work and at home).
    Shoot me an email.

  • thank you! email sent!
  • Could be a page size thing also, what sent you was the same thing that was sent to ponoko but that was based on their template and formatting instructions. I generated it in illustrator but you should be able to open and edit it in Inkscape which is free
  • oh, i used the file you posted here in the thread.
    i couldn't open the EPS with inkscape, so i tried it with a very old version of photoshop (which i don't really know either)
    i copied+pasted the part i needed (just the bottom without the line) to inkscape but couldn't get it right to do the vector thing....
    i tried to upload the svg file but ponoko complained.

    but Fresh Pants made the bottom plate file for me with illustrator and that one worked now, i've ordered it today.
    thank you very much for that, Sam.

    here's how my photoshop opens the EPS file:
  • Hmm... Looks like PhotoShop "unfolded" the image, complete with overlaps.

    I personally haven't used Ponoko... yet. So I'm not familiar with their upload/software procedure.
    I have used laser cutters and vector (Illustrator, AutoCAD) files to cut acrylic, wood, paper, cardstock, and vinyl before though, so that part is familiar.

    I have a couple of projects that could use cases, but I thought I'd fab them up out of wood or something instead.
  • btw how did you achieve the nice filling of the letters?
    my results so far are weak, the cuts of the outlines are very thin, and my "marker" seems to be crap.
    any brand recommended maybe?
    i'll try to find a better one, i'll never get close to your readability with this one
  • edited December 2011
    I think that's a great idea for front & sides on anything!
    Nice looking Altitude! I would think it's ergonomic too?

    Would imagine some aluminim brazier rivets being
    adapted as fasteners for the front (or back) panels.
    Only need to be threaded and grind off the pin.

    Or there's some great "suggestions" for fasteners here:


    Pics of "blind self clinching" standoffs-

    @rosch- yer photo is shaped like an upside-down L.

    Have not looked on mouser or digikey for these.

    Coming from POV of saving on tapping & threading?
  • McMaster still refuses to sell to Canadians. Man that pisses me off.
  • edited December 2011
    the new bottom plate worked well. it's almost a millimeter thicker than the rest but that just adds stability.
    i've used regular threaded rods with ugly ugly nuts on the sides, something i'll DEFINITELY have to change soon. also i might have to add one more acrylic slice to each side, as the front and back parts are bending slightly when i srew them firmly together. but it works and i must say it's an amazing design.
    i'm glad i did it, and many thanks to altitude and Fresh Pants!!

    ALSO: very nice connectors! good find!
  • nice! and then there were 2..
  • Looks pretty pro, the blue meanie!
  • I think those acorn nuts on the end look pretty boss actually, and they'll probably protect your corners and jacks at least a little bit. I say keep em!
  • Cool Rosch. Glad I could help.
  • one thing I did with mine that you might want to consider is to epoxy the end pieces on the inside to the front panel, the long thin 3mm acrylic is not exactly the stiffest stuff in the world and will flex when you plug stuff in and out of it (you probably noticed that already i suspect)
  • yes i'm thinking about a solution. it can be seen in the picture also. but it's looking much better now. i had some quite stiff shielded audio cables at a 90° angle running along the MCU (causing noise, so i had to lead them around the pcb) and they were pushing against it. having them parallel to the back side now makes it better but it still flexes when pulling plugs. dit the fixing work good for you? did you glue some additional piece in there to make it more firm?
    i was thinking about cutting some little (maybe rectangular) pieces from the old bottom, glue them on top of each other until they're as high as the back panel, drill trough them and use that brick as an acrylic standoff, fixed with a long screw through an additional hole in bottom and top, and glued with one side to the back panel, so the case could still be disassembled completely.
    but if that method is firm enough i'm gonna try that first, that would save me from making a hole in the top.
    what glue did you use? do you think JB weld would work here? i asked Frank about glueing acrylic and he recommended some special glue, but it seems as if you need that just for aesthetical reasons. i have JB here, so if that don't etch through acrylic i'll use that.
  • I used a 2 part, 5min epoxy. Get the thick "gel" stuff that wont run and keep its shape better
  • Your friend was talking about solvent welding glue like Weld-On probably, which is what I use to glue acrylic:

    I like weld-on number three but you have to work with it fast. There's thicker stuff too -- I've got some 4052 that's less runny.

    If you end up using it, glue some practice pieces first to get a feel for it. You can't really re-do anything once you stick the parts together.

  • Shit, I totally forgot about that stuff. I even used it in bong building 101 in school..
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