Quiet here, time for some new case ponoko/sketchup maddness

edited August 2010 in Everything Else
So I finally decided to learn how to use sketchup since I have a %50 off coupon to ponoko burning a hole in my inbox and my WTPA 1.0 is still nekkid. Initial design:





  • Very nice!
  • Nice Altitude - so how will you do the curved piece of plastic (or whatever) on the left side in the bottom picture?
  • those are actually slices of the same part that will be held in place with two 3mm rods threaded at both ends with screws holding everything together. I only rendered half of it but it will be the same on both sides. The slices are only 3mm thick so there will be a bunch of them needed but this is a concept, whether or not it is practical is another matter.
  • Wow, fancy. It took me a bit to understand what you mean about the slices, but I get it now. I'm very interested in the idea of using flat materials cut by CNC or laser, to create 3d shapes. It seems to make complex custom fabrication a little more affordable.
  • That's very cool Altitude - a new take on wooden end cheeks! I too think it would look very cool - go for it!
  • That's a lot of slices!
  • 92 slices :P
  • edited August 2010
    so can you run coloured leds under those end pieces to animate it based on audio?
  • *that* would be cool - level meters up each side...
  • edited September 2010
    Case is done:


    Pretty much came out exactly like I wanted it to except for 2 things:

    1: The back panel is backwards, everything should be mirrored
    2: I should have added tabs to the top and bottom panels to keep the face panel and the back panel from sliding up and down (little notches)

    The cost at ponoko is ~$68 and includes a number of extra side profiles to make up any material thickness variations. I designed it for 3mm material but the stuff I got was under (2.78mm) so I needed to add more slices to make that up. I was hoping for the blue tint to be much more transparent than it is and the gloss acrylic is still pretty brutal toward fingerprints so some materials selection adjustment should be considered.

    Ponoko is running a special where you can source your own material and get 25% off making till the end of the month.

    If anyone is interested in the file, let me know..
  • It's gorgeous! Way prettier than mine. Those rods are crazytown. They're pretty awesome.
    Well done!
  • Very nice Altitude! I don't quite get what you mean about your back panel, looks fine in the photo? At any rate, sweet!
  • the midi should be where the power is, closer to the socket on the pcb
  • this is really really cool!
  • Hey Altitude,

    Really nice! Can you send or upload the file?
  • Wa wa wee wahh...
  • edited September 2010
    Changes made. Ponoko ready


    I held this together with some 3mm OD 2mm ID stainless tubing tapped with 2-56 threads on each end (4 of them). 0.080 diameter" is a little large of a pilot for a 2-56 thread but it will give you threads deep enough to engage and it also makes it a hell of a lot easier to thread. The length of the rods inside the will be determined by the thickness of the material but make sure they end up a little shorter than all the slices stacked together, it should not protrude into the end pieces.

    The midi socket is for those cool round Deltrons (not in pictures, forgot to order some) and the audio sockets are the square box switchcrafts. I'll post the part#s later when I feel like it. Some part yoga is necessary (big caps are on the back of the PCB and bent)

  • Wow, that's a really ambitious design and it came out very well! Congratulations, Altitude.
  • I totally tried to find the McMaster part you used but got caught up in the threaded rod section. Thanks for the info.
    Again, totally kickass.
  • Oops. Guess there were some options I didnt figure in. 1m should be plenty to do four: http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-tubing/=915vcu. Not exactly cheap (I had some on hand) so you can really just about use anything that has a 3mm OD and ~2mm ID. The pilot hole for a 2-56 screw is .070" so anything a bit larger will be fine. Just be warned that 2-56 is a small, fine thread and tapping a 0.070" hole in stainless steel is not remotely close to easy so 0.080 is what I recommend for steel
  • Altitude,
    this is by far the coolest design i've seen, including colorscheme - although i usually do not like plastic or acrylic. would you mind if i (try to) make me one, too?
    i still have the WTPA 1.01 that came as kit without housing, but already prepared for a tight case, caps wise.
  • have at it. Just be aware there is a fair amount of metal working needed to make this, let me know if you need help
  • cool, thanks!
  • Looks like McMaster might have similarly sized aluminum or brass equivalent to that rod -- so if you find one with dims that you like (or don't mind widening the ID with a drill) it might be a lot easier to tap.
  • edited December 2010
    Right, it does not matter what the tubes are diameter wise, just adjust in the EPS file to whatever is convenient. All they need to be is a little shorter than the sum of all the slices so when you screw everything together, it clamps all the slices. The other thing that required turned parts were the spacers to hold the front and back panels on. What I did with mine is used a long 4-40 socket head screw which went through the front panel and was held in place by a spacer of appropriate length. This left about 4mm of screw sticking out to mount the board onto which was in turn held in place by another threaded spacer which the screws for the back panel threaded into (i'm a little tipsy atm so please let me know if that dont make no sense)
  • Ha! I'm glad somebody else posts on this forum when they're drunk.
  • nothin worse then a drunken sealion in a crowded party...
  • hi again, after almost a year i've finally ordered the ponoko case yesterday.
    mine was excluding shipping just 60$, i hope i did no mistake there (P2 format).

    Altitude, could you please post the part numbers of the jacks you used?
    looks like at least the audio connectors need to be a specific part for this case , maybe the dc plug also.
    the midi jacks seem to be quite standard parts, maybe.

    did you get them from digikey, or mouser?
  • The audio plugs are the standard enclosed switchcraft ones: Mouser Part #:502-N112BX
    Midi Jack is the Deltron DIN5 Panel Mount (these are SUPER nice): Mouser Part #: 164-2522
    And the DC jack is the Kobi standard panel mount: Mouser Part#: 163-4302-E

    The DC jack i used on that thing was the one with a bayonet plug (twist to lock in place) the part# above is for a standard 2.1mm one
  • thank you!
Sign In or Register to comment.