Some hints on building 1

ok so let's clarify this, the AUD IN and AUD OUT holes on the PCB are NOT used if you have the I/O card, audio in and out go on the far right upper corner with the board upside down,  The Assembly guide picture is a bit vague on that (JUST TRY AND GUESS WHERE THE ORANGE AND BROWN CABLE GO FROM THE PIC) but remember that Audio OUT is the hole closest to the edge of the board , Audio IN is the next one over. You can see the traces on the board if you stare at it a while.

Power in and ground are also over there and let me bitch a bit here, if you are using 28 gauge STRANDED ribbon cable as shown be very careful in your soldering and wire prep, twist those strands tight and clip or solder down any stray strands that show up .....otherwise you will be sorry 

here's a link to A PIC , (Some day I'll learn to embed them in these posts   ) 

Comments

  • Nice job. The connection between the main WTPA2 board and the jack pcb has been one of the biggest pitas for me here too, agreed that it's annoying. Really, I should have done those connections with an IDC cable and saved everybody the headaches.

    Thanks again for the pics.
  • I can't say for sure if it works height wise since I don't have the breakout board, but wouldn't it be easy to just solder those male headers there and use some 2 or 3pin (or more) single row idc connector cables (self crimped)?
    But I guess room is the issue here.

    About image embedding, it's easy: click on the Insert Image icon in the tool bar right on top of this box, then paste in the direct link to your pic (not the host website, just the address of the pic itself)

    image
  • I'm probably going to try right angle pin headers and make my own connectors and see if that works.  Shouldn't the audio be shielded though, or is the length not long enough to cause issues?  I've got lots of .100 pins and connectors from pinball work so it might be able to fit in the case this way.
  • If you want to use shielded cable, go for it!  It def can't hurt.  You can even run it to the audio in on the bottom of the board :-)
  • I opted to not use ribbon cable, went with soldering in individual pin headers.  I didn't have any right angle ones so I just bent them a bit with some pliers.  Crimped some connectors on some wires and put some heat shrink over them.  It looks ok, sounds clean.  Right angle headers would be nicer.

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  • That looks nice and clean!  Cleaner than the ribbon cable I used, for sure.
  • edited February 2015
    Todd, I just noticed that I have a hole missing a resistor.  You show it filled in your assembly manual but it doesn't look labeled on the pcb.  It's right between R1 and C5 just above the 6N138.  What should be there?  Now I'll have to take it apart and get that in there.  

    imageimage

    Also, I can't seem to get flickr links to work (https)  anything there?  First pic is of my ribbon cabling, second of the missing resistor.
  • I think that must actually be R1 - 200.  I'll have to pull the unit and get that in there - doh!
  • edited February 2015
    @shimoda: I read the PCB labeling as your missing resistor being R1, a 220.

    edit: ha, guess you figured it out.
  • edited March 2015
    So Todd, who's soldering up the SMD parts?  Thankfully I am well acquainted with the smell of raging hot voltage regulator :P


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  • Ah shit. Sorry. They were all paste stenciled and soldered in panels of 10. They got eyeballed for misalignment but I must have missed that bridge. So sorry.
  • No worries.  Nice job btw, great progression, vast improvement over V1.  SD card is a game changer.  Been abusing Chinese children's songs all morning straight off of youtube.  If you need beta testers for the euro version, hit me up (this ones shipping out, but I want one for myself)

    One thought though: Longer 4-40 screws for the feet?  the 1/4" ones barely get there.
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